St. George? Who? Today is, of course, universally celebrated as the (putative) date of both the birth and death of the secular saint of world literature, William Shakespeare. Most years I try to remember to do a Will-themed post on 23rd April, so, conveniently, on Saturday we happen to have gone up to London to meet our son and his partner for a guided tour of the reconstructed Shakespeare's Globe on the South Bank.
Of the four of us, I was the only one who had never been there for an actual performance – TBH I'm not a great theatre-goer – but we were all keen to get a literal look behind the scenes. These guided tours are clearly a popular activity: there are fifteen bookable slots every half hour, 9:30 - 4:30 every day, and there were at least twenty of us on our 2:00 pm tour on Saturday. At around £30 a head, that's clearly a useful source of income for the Globe.
It was fun actually to be inside that famous "wooden O" and feel something of what those earliest audiences must have felt. Although not what they would have smelt: according to our guide the standing-only groundlings were packed in shoulder to shoulder and known as "penny stinkards", not least because many of them would have worked in the nearby tanneries and breweries. To be honest, though, the tour would only be truly informative if you knew little or nothing about Tudor theatre, and disappointingly there is no actual looking behind the scenes: the guide takes you into the theatre space, delivers a lecture at various suitable locations, and leads you out again, inevitably ending in the gift shop. So, no dressing rooms, or any other working spaces used by the actors or technical members of the company, which is surely what you want to see if you are interested in theatre as such. Our son, for example, seriously considered a stage management career after enjoying his theatrical involvement at university, but (thankfully) followed a different path; Covid must have hit precariously-employed theatre staff as hard as the plague years did in Shakespeare's time.
The guide's lecture obviously has to take into account the possibility – indeed, the likelihood – that some in the group will not have fluent English, barely know the name of any of the plays, or even be aware that electric lighting was not yet available in the 16th century. It will also be coloured by the presence of young children, and there were several in our group. So our guide could only hint at the other sorts of entertainment on offer on the South Bank in the years when it was beyond the jurisdiction of the City proper. Although, amusingly, present in our party was a ten-year-old – clearly a future literary scholar – a solemn, red-haired, bespectacled girl who could answer all of his "can anyone guess" questions, including the one about how had someone extinguished his companion's breeches that had caught fire during the conflagration that destroyed the original Globe. My guess would have been that he had pissed all over his friend, but her hand went straight up: she actually knew that he had used his pot of ale. Impressive, young lady, but you'll need to learn how not to be so annoying. Knowledge may be power, but feigned ignorance is the way to deploy it...
A few things our guide pointed out about the way the physical reality of the place governed the stagecraft did strike me as noteworthy, however.
For example, I had never before realised that those in the very expensive "lord's gallery" boxes, well away from the stinkards – if you had to ask, you couldn't have afforded one – were facing the players from behind: their lordships were primarily there to be seen and admired, not to watch the play. So the suggestion was that the frequent verbal descriptions of the action on the stage – which are what make the plays so readable – are not just intended to cover the inadequacies of 16th-century stage business, but also there to help anyone follow the action who either can't see because their view of the stage is blocked by some inconsiderately tall groundlings, or who is rattling their jewellery in those prestigious but awkwardly-placed seats. I'm not sure I buy that, but it's an interesting idea.
He also mentioned that rehearsal time was minimal: sometimes just a day or two. So, where today's actors can spend months workshopping a drama and exploring their character's motivations, back then each actor had a ready-made specialism: you can imagine that one might make impressive kings, another hilarious clowns, while the more mellifluous young boys would do noblewomen and others, less well-favoured, do "hostesses", and so on. Crucially, they would stick to their métier, like a prefabricated dramatic component. It would have made for a very different experience, and who happened to be available to play parts might well have driven the writing, too. It is often commented, for example, that the change from Will Kemp to Robert Armin as the company's "comedy" actor marks a change in Shakespeare's comic characters, from the simple clowning of Dogberry in Much Ado, say, to the melancholy "wise fools" of As You Like It and ultimately King Lear.
Now, as I say, I'm not really a true theatre-goer, so my opinion counts for little in this regard, but, for what it's worth, I think the Globe has strayed from its original purpose. There are many theatres in London where fine productions of Shakespeare's plays are put on, and which often put a premium on breaking new theatrical ground, whether it be gender- or race-blind casting, present-day and controversial settings, or whatever other innovations a director seeking to make an impact in a competitive space can come up with. But the American actor Sam Wanamaker went to an awful lot of trouble to get the Globe built on London's South Bank as a replica of Shakespeare's original theatre in every practical way. So you would think that if there is one place where authentic Elizabethan or Jacobean dramatic conventions could be seen in action – perhaps even down to having boys play the female parts? Probably not? – then the Globe would fit that bill. And that was the case to start with, under the artistic direction of Mark Rylance, with the rubric "original practices". But since then it seems to have become just another venue for much the same sort of interpretive innovations as in other theatres, such as setting the most recent production of A Midsummer Night's Dream in a winter snowscape. Yes, very clever, I bet no-one's thought of that before. Hey, it's Sauna Shakespeare!
Because a set-change for the next production was in progress – again, perversely IMHO, it's going to be Brecht's Mother Courage, of all things – we were asked not to photograph the stage. Hence the rather cramped view above. We were also forbidden to get onto the actual stage, which was a shame, as I did not get a chance to declaim one of my favourite bits of Shakespeariana:
O, for a muse of fire that would ascend
The brightest heaven of invention!
A kingdom for a stage, princes to act,
And monarchs to behold the swelling scene!
Then should the warlike Harry, like himself,
Assume the port of Mars, and at his heels,
Leashed in like hounds, should famine, sword, and fire
Crouch for employment. But pardon, gentles all,
The flat unraisèd spirits that hath dared
On this unworthy scaffold to bring forth
So great an object. Can this cockpit hold
The vasty fields of France? Or may we cram
Within this wooden O the very casques
That did affright the air at Agincourt?
O pardon, since a crookèd figure may
Attest in little place a million,
And let us, ciphers to this great account,
On your imaginary forces work.
Suppose within the girdle of these walls
Are now confined two mighty monarchies,
Whose high uprearèd and abutting fronts
The perilous narrow ocean parts asunder.
Piece out our imperfections with your thoughts.
Into a thousand parts divide one man,
And make imaginary puissance.
Think, when we talk of horses, that you see them
Printing their proud hoofs i’ th’ receiving earth,
For ’tis your thoughts that now must deck our kings,
Carry them here and there, jumping o’er times,
Turning th’ accomplishment of many years
Into an hourglass; for the which supply,
Admit me chorus to this history,
Who, prologue-like, your humble patience pray
Gently to hear, kindly to judge our play.
Prologue to Henry V
Or at least belt out whatever garbled, misremembered bits of it I could come up with on the spot, anyway. Which is probably just as well. But, by Harry, what a speech, and what could be more appropriate to the Globe? They should employ someone to do it, once every half hour, as part of the guided tour.
But a little magic was still in store for us. As our guide delivered his final words in the inescapable gift shop, he gestured to the glass case beside me, in which I had already spotted the ultimate Shakespearean treasure: a genuine copy of the First Folio, open at Macbeth, one of the eighteen plays we would not have now, had this unprecedented, celebratory and posthumous volume not been compiled in 1623 by the great man's friends and colleagues. WTF. OMFG. Not for sale, sadly – a copy sold at auction in 2020 fetched $10 million – although a facsimile can be bought for a mere £125. And, besides, you can scrutinise the Bodleian Library's copy online absolutely free: I am proud to be listed among the donors who made this wonderful project possible.
Happy 462nd birthday, Will!























































